Radiation: Radiation
is the term we use for the equipment that actually delivers heat into
a particular area. There are many different types of radiation, each
with its own features and benefits. Hydronic Solutions sells and installs
various types of radiation that will accommodate both budgetary and
aesthetic concerns.
Baseboard fin tube convectors are probably
the most popular style of radiation on Long Island. Baseboard fin tube
works by drawing cool air (that is low to the floor) across the heat
exchanger (element). The heated air then rises to the ceiling, thereby
pushing cooler air down. The process is repeated until the thermostat
is satisfied. Benefits of this radiation are quick response time with
regards to heat, economical price, and multiple btuh transfer rates.
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Slant/Fin 30A
610 btuh @ 180 F (4gpm) |
Slant/Fin 83A
770 btuh @ 180 F (4gpm) |
Although fin tube baseboard heats up quickly, it also cools down quickly,
thereby increasing the frequency of the boiler cycling on and off. Fin
tube baseboard requires airflow across the floor, and as such, it may
affect furniture placement. Some types of furniture, when placed too
close to fin tube baseboard, will negate some or all of the heat output.
Fin tube baseboard does require some maintenance (it's important to
keep the "fins" free of dust in order to maintain maximum
efficiency), and the covers may not stand up well to the wear and tear
of small children! The models shown here are by Slant/Fin
Mfg.
Convectors and "Toe-kick" Heaters
are similar to fin tube baseboard in that they rely on air movement
in order to deliver heat. Toe kick heaters are usually installed in
areas where there is a lack of wall space, thereby limiting the use
of other types of radiation. The toe kick heater relies on a fan to
force the air across its heat exchanger in order to put heat into the
room. Toe kick heaters can deliver a lot of heat (btuh) from a minimum
of space. These are often used in kitchens, baths, and under staircases.
Disadvantages of toe kick heaters are that they tend to be noisy and
will usually require some type of service (fan motor, air valve, etc.)
sooner or later.
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Beacon Morris K-84 toe kick
(hot water only). |
Convector cabinet (hot water or steam)
uses various elements. |
Standard convectors (as seen above, right) do not rely on forced air
to put heat into the room. They are true convectors, meaning that the
cool air (again, low to the floor) enters the low opening of the cabinet,
is heated by a heat exchanger (element) and exits the top opening. The
heated air then rises to the ceiling, thereby pushing cooler air down.
The process is repeated until the thermostat is satisfied. Convectors
deliver a lot of heat from a relatively small space and there are no
moving parts to worry about. The elements are available in copper with
aluminum fins, steel with steel fins, or cast iron. Disadvantages of
convectors include maintenance requirement (like baseboard fin tube,
convector elements must be kept clean); they are not especially attractive
(very 1950-ish); and more costly than fin tube baseboard.
The Beacon Morris Company manufactures the models shown here.
Cast iron radiation offers benefits that fin tube baseboard and convectors
cannot match. Cast iron has much greater mass than fin tube, and therefore
holds the heat for a greater length of time. The result is less frequent
cycle times with regards to the boiler, and lower fuel costs. Cast iron
radiation is extremely durable and available in several different styles
- baseboard, recessed (radiant), and free standing (slenderized and
classical). Furniture placement is less of an issue with cast iron because
cast iron does not rely as much on air movement (convection). Rather,
cast iron achieves a radiant type heating effect.
Burnham Radiant recessed, Baseray baseboard, Slenderized free standing,
and Classical free standing cast iron radiation
Cast iron radiation tends to be more costly to buy than fin tube baseboard
and the aesthetics of cast iron radiation may not please everyone. However,
if the budget allows, it is our opinion that cast iron radiation is
a better value for the long term. The
Burnham Corporation manufactures the models shown here.
Panel type radiators are available in multiple configurations (vertical,
horizontal, even curved), come in both radiant and convective styles,
and offer a multitude of decorating options. These radiators can be
custom ordered to almost any specification, including custom colors
and finishes. They are also available as towel warmers. Although they
tend to be more costly than other types of radiation, panel radiators
easily offer the widest range of choices for that "once in a lifetime"
project. Runtal-North
America manufactures the panel radiators pictured below.
Why Radiant Heat?
Radiant floor heating is the fastest growing segment of the heating
industry today - and with good reason! Radiant heat is more efficient
and more comfortable than other types of heating. Most homes are heated
by convective methods. Convection is based upon heating the air in the
home to make it feel warm. Cool air hugs the floor, passes over a convective
radiator (such as fin-tube baseboard), and becomes warm. This warm air
rises towards the ceiling, thereby pushing cooler air down to the floor
where it is then heated up again. The cycle is repeated until the thermostat
is satisfied. (Less effective is forced hot air, which blows dry, heated
air through dirty ductwork!) Convective heating is concerned with heat
loss. Heat loss (measured in btuh) is heat energy lost from a room or
a house in an hour's time. Nature always seeks a balance, so if it is
cold outside and warm inside, the cold air outside is always going to
try to get inside where it is warm (and vice-versa). When it does, we
have to replace that lost heat (or sit around in a pretty cold house!).
Radiant heat approaches comfort from a different angle. What we are
concerned about when heating with radiant is how much heat our bodies
are losing, not how much heat our house is losing. We know that hot
goes to cold; when we sit next to a big picture window in February,
we feel cold, even though the air temperature in the room is a comfy
72 F. This is because our body heat is going right to the cold glass
in the window. (Try this: next time you head for the supermarket, bring
along a pocket thermometer. Check the air temperature in various aisles.
Even though you feel really cold in the frozen food aisle, the air temperature
is about the same throughout the store! That's because your body heat
is leaving you to go to the cold freezers.)
By heating with radiant surfaces, we aim to minimize body heat loss.
We do this by heating with radiant energy - the same type of heat that
comes from the sun. Think about standing in the bright sunlight on a
cold winter day. It's actually pretty comfortable right? That's because
the radiant energy from the sun is keeping you nice and toasty. However,
how does it feel when a big cloud comes along and blocks that sunlight?
All of a sudden you're saying to yourself " Wow, it sure got cold
out!" The cloud is blocking the radiant energy from the sun and
consequently your body heat starts to leave you (to warm up that cold
tree nearby). By heating with radiant energy, we try to keep as many
things in the house at the same temperature as the surface of our skin
(about 83 F). If we do this, then the heat loss from our bodies is greatly
reduced and our comfort level is greatly enhanced! Radiant heat can
be designed in many different ways - in the floor or walls (even the
ceilings), radiant panel baseboard, towel warmers, and decorative radiators,
just to name a few! Radiant heat will keep you home cleaner and you
family healthier. Let us show you how it can be done in your home! Below
are several different installation methods for radiant floor heating
that we have done.
Radiant floor heating installation methods:
Figure 1
Figure 1 is a joist heating installation seen from above before
the plywood sub-floor and hardwood floor cover was put down. Our
client wanted radiant heat over an inaccessible crawl space, wanted
to maintain the original floor level height (to match the existing)
and wanted to stay with a particular budget. By creating a "hot
air" pocket from underneath, we were able to heat the floor.
This method has its limitations and should not be installed without
the benefit of an accurate design.
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Figure 2
Figure 2 is a mud and tile application done over an existing concrete
slab. The radiant tube is attached to the slab using a plastic channel
called "Radiant-Rail" by RTI, of Bellport, LI. We secure
the radius and top of each loop with straps screwed into plastic
anchors that are inserted into the slab. After the tube is pressurized,
the mud mix is put down on top. |
Figure 3
Figure 3 is an installation done for a hardwood floor cover.
We installed RTI Radiant-Trak aluminum transfer plates to the
underside of the sub-floor. After the tube is pressurized, the
floor is insulated and the ceiling sheet-rocked. Radiant-Trak
establishes a thermal mass so that the low water temperature can
effectively heat the floor without damaging it. This method is
very effective for existing floors (especially thin set tile floors)
that a client may not want to take up.
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Figure 4
Figure 4 is a mud and tile application done on a wood frame floor.
A vapor barrier is installed on the wood sub-floor, followed by
the diamond mesh. We then tack the tube to the floor using RTI
pex nails (a plastic one-hole type strap). Once the tube is pressurized,
the mud is put down. These installations offer the best results
and can very often utilize lower water temperatures, as tile is
an excellent agent for transferring heat.
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The Importance of Proper Boiler Sizing:
How much will you spend on heating your home this winter? How about
next winter? How about the next twenty-five winters? If you are considering
a gas conversion or just updating your equipment, we would like to help
you make the right choice. At Hydronic Solutions, we recognize the importance
of installing efficient, cost-effective heating equipment. That's why
we do an accurate heat loss calculation of your home before recommending
a replacement hot water boiler (or a heat load sizing when replacing
your steam boiler). Like you, we work hard for our money. We don't like
to overspend on utilities anymore than you do. An accurate heat loss
calculation will assure you of maximum savings on your new boiler -
not just on the initial cost, but on the lifetime operating costs as
well.
Allow us to illustrate the importance of proper
boiler sizing:
- A home in the northeast utilizes 2500 heatloss hours annually.
- Assume the cost of a "therm" of gas or a gallon of oil
is $1.20. (A therm is a unit of measurement equal to 100,000 btuh of
gas; a gallon of #2 heating oil will yield 140,000 gross btuh. Check
your utility or oil delivery bill for the actual cost of fuel in your
area.)
- A 100,000 btuh gas boiler delivers a net heat load of 72,200 btuh
at 80% efficiency.
A 105,000 btuh oil boiler (firing at .75 GPH) delivers a net heat load
of 79,000 at 83% efficiency.
- The annual fuel cost for a boiler can be calculated as follows:
((I=B=R net btuh/1 unit of fuel/efficiency)*cost of gas per therm*2500
hours.
Gas: ((72,200btuh/100,000btuh)/80%)*$1.20*2500 hours = $2707.00
Oil: ((79,000btuh/140,000btuh)/83%)*$1.20*2500 hours = $2040.00
If your home has an I=B=R heat loss of 70,000 btuh but the boiler you
have installed is increased by just one "size" (125,000 gas
or 140,000 oil - gross input), your annual fuel cost would be:
Gas: (( 89,600btuh/100,000btuh)/80%)*$1.20*2500 hours = $3360.00
Oil: ((105,000btuh/140,000btuh)/83%)*$1.20*2500 hours = $2711.00
That's an extra $653.00 per year for gas, $671.00
for oil! But what's even worse is this: over the life of the boiler
(about 25 years) you will spend an additional $16,000 or more for fuel
that you cannot use!
In most cases, your home's heat loss has changed since the installation
of your existing boiler. New windows, new insulation in the walls and
attic, new exterior finishing (i.e. siding), as well as additions to
the structure are just some of the things that will affect your home's
heat loss (and your heating bills). Don't be satisfied with heating
contractors who size your home heating requirements by "eye".
Odds are that you will overspend - both now and later. At Hydronic Solutions,
we recommend properly sized equipment, which will always save you money!
The Benefits of Hydronic Solutions Boiler Installations:
Primary/secondary piping: Primary/secondary
piping is the piping method we use on hot water boiler installations.
This piping arrangement pumps hot boiler water in a loop around the
boiler (this is the primary loop). The pump supply and return manifolds
are then teed into the primary loop. When any zone calls for heat, both
that zone pump and the primary loop pump turn on simultaneously. The
cooler zone return water is blended with the hot primary loop water
so that the water temperature entering the boiler is still fairly high.
By doing this, the water in the boiler stays hotter longer and the boiler
will cycle on and off less frequently. The result? You save money on
fuel costs!
Supply side circulators ("Pumping Away"):
Most hot water boiler installations you see will have the pumps installed
on the return side of the system, pulling the water through the radiation.
At Hydronic Solutions, we install all our pumps on the supply side of
the system, pushing the water into the radiation. By doing this the
highest system pressure is in the radiators, and the lowest system pressure
is in the boiler. This is extremely important when trying to eliminate
air and noise problems. Air is the enemy of every hot water system.
It leads to noisy, cold radiators and will corrode your heating equipment
from the inside out. Air elimination is perpetual! It needs to be removed
on a constant basis! Air is released from water most easily under the
following two conditions: 1. When the water is at its hottest, and 2.
When the pressure is at its lowest. The system water is hottest in the
boiler (that's where the fire is!). The system pressure is lowest on
the suction (inlet) side of the pump. All we have to do now is get the
lowest system pressure together with the hottest water - and we do that
by "pumping away"! When we pump away, the air that has been
released from the water can be trapped and removed - before it gets
into your radiators.
Enhanced air separation and removal: The
complement to supply side pumping is enhanced air separation and removal.
Once we have released the air from the water through supply side pumping
we must trap it and remove it. We do this with an enhanced air separator.
As the air flows into the EAS it is caught by, and clings to, a large
stainless steel brush. The small air bubbles then combine to form larger
bubbles, which then float to the top of the EAS chamber and are expelled
through an automatic air vent. This is an ongoing process. Once the
air is expelled, more water enters into the boiler through the fill
valve and with the water, more air! When your heating system is installed
by Hydronic Solutions, you will never hear water moving through the
pipes or bleed a cold radiator again!
Outdoor reset control: Outdoor reset control
modulates the boiler water temperature based upon what the air temperature
is outside. Your boiler is sized and designed to give you 100% maximum
performance every day of the year! The reality is that you may only
need 100% of you boiler's capacity 2 or 3 days a year. Outdoor reset
adjusts the boiler water temperature to match the amount of heat you
actually need. Did you know that, at 18 degrees outside, you only need
80% of your boiler's capacity? At 31 degrees (still below freezing!),
you only need 60% of you boiler's capacity. By lowering the water temperature
in the boiler, we can adjust the load to meet the demand. The boiler
does not fire as long or as often as it does without outdoor reset,
thereby saving you money on fuel costs - typically from 15 to 25%. An
additional benefit of outdoor reset is that the heat from the radiators
is more comfortable; on milder days, the radiators are not so overwhelmingly
hot.
Anatomy of a Hyrdronic Solutions Boiler Installation:
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